March 30th and 31st (Arrival and Day 1)
Tuesday, March 30th, 2004
Clear & warm, dark
My American Airlines flight from Boston landed in Heathrow around 9 PM. It took
an hour to pass customs, collect my luggage, and walk the terminal. Heathrow is
an immense airport. But convienently the London Underground (or Tube) ran all
the way out to Heathrow. So I bought a one-way ticket to central London. I had
reservations with the West Cromwell Hotel in the Kensington - Earl's Court
area. So I bought the ticket pictured to the right to get me to the Earl's
Court stop. The Tube is divided into six zones. Most of the sights, if not all,
that concern tourists are located in Zone 1. It seems that travelcards may only
be bought for two zones so I bought a "Zone 1-2 travelcard" for 7 days.
This travelcard allowed me to hop on the Tube anywhere in Zones 1 & 2 and saw a
lot of use, as you will read. While riding the Tube to Earl's Court I spoke
with an Indian girl and her father (who were on my flight from Boston). She
lived in Sheffield. "The Tube doesn't go to Sheffield. I must have switched at
King's Cross." For those of you familiar with British comedy will recognize
that quote. All others, please disregard and chalk up to my eccentricity! The
father and daughter were visiting a relative in Wilmington, Massachusetts. It's
a small world, after all... Predictably they were amazed at Americans
dependence on the car. They said they felt out of place walking anywhere. Those
of you who know the Burlington - Wilmington know that walking is frowned upon.
She suggested I visit Sheffield. I kindly declined as Sheffield is about 2
hours away by rail up in the Midlands just west of Manchester and Liverpool.
After about a 20-minute ride I arrived at Earl's Court. From here the map
directed me to walk north along Earl's Court to West Cromwell Street. Now the
map directed me to take a right at the intersection. OK, traffic was light so I
got used to traffic screaming by on the wrong side. No problem. But I didn't
realize that the map was incorrect. It showed the Tube stop not on Earl's Court
(like it should've) but on the next street west. Fortunately Cromwell is a busy
road and provided safety for my midnight exploration. But I finally turned
around and found my hotel. You can just see the distinctive blue awnings in the
center of the picture to the right.
This picture depicts a typical small intersection on a moderately busy street.
The oncoming traffic of Cromwell Street is on the leftside of the picture and
the divided intersecting road in the center wandering off the photo to the
right. Most of the sidewalks on the West End were as clean and wide as the one
pictured. A lot of the intersections on major roads include tips painted on the
pavement to remind left-hand drivers where to look when crossing the road. This
is helpful when tired and a newcomer but becomes unnecessary quickly. "Look
right"
Wednesday, March 31st, 2004
Sunny and 22ºC or 72ºF
The next day I woke up at 7 AM, showered and went to get my "English" breakfast
of toast and corn flakes. Hmm, yeah very English.
Hopped on the District line to Bayswater tube stop. Then I wandered through
Kensington Gardens. I stopped at the Round Pond to consult the map and decide
what to see first. Lots of pigeons that were so tame they did not move out of
the way! I then decided to walk up Bayswater Road to Baker Street.
Bayswater changed into Oxford Street then turned left into Baker Street. I
walked along the street that Sherlock Holmes was written to have lived. Quite a
modern and expensive look with lots of shops. I did not find 221b Baker Street.
At the intersection with Marylebone Road I was stopped by a charity salesman.
He explained the curious arrangement to me. Evidently these men and women
solicit charity funds from pedestrians' checking accounts. Since I have no
British account, which surprised the salesman, I could not donate even if I
wished to do so!
At the end of Baker Street I turned around and started down the opposite side.
Then I lucked out and found the Sherlock Holmes Memorabilia Company. I bought a
magnet resembling the Baker Street sign and more importantly, The Sherlock
Holmes Walk guidebook. Ha, now I'll find 221b, I thought.
I followed the
directions in the book (a worthwhile purchase) and walked by the Sherlock
Holmes Museum and the Abbey National Building. This building features a plaque
unveiled by Jeremy Brett in 1985 marking the actual 221b address. I continued
on and saw number 109, which is "one of the more authentic . . . contenders for
number 221b." Continuing along Baker Street, I came upon the Camden House from
The Empty House.
Directly across the street are the offices of Marks and Spencer's. Number 21 is
believed by many to be the site of Holmes' and Watson's apartment. Continuing
along the guided path I saw Conan Doyle's medical practice and the famous
Langham Hotel. Along the way I stopped in front of number 15 Welbeck Street to
see Holmes nearly killed by a quickly moving "two-horse van." Professor
Moriarty's attempt failed! I continued past the Langham Hotel, now owned by
Hilton and did not see BBC on the opposite side of the street.
I continued down Regent Street in which Watson and Holmes followed Sir Henry
Baskerville.
Oxford Circus wasn't too bad but sees a lot of traffic! I walked by the Carnaby
Street area, reminding myself to see it next time I'm near Soho. There are lots
of expensive shops along Regent Street.
Piccadilly Circus was crazy. What a zoo! Click the thumbnail below to see the
London advertising equivalent of Times Square.
I saw the statue of Eros. Before continuing on down Regent Street.
I continued down Regent Street toward Trafalgar Square. I saw a memorial and
archway at the end of the Mall at the intersection with Cockspur Street. The
Square was a typical trap with people milling aronud with cameras so I just
walked through. Curiously two young perople in a glass box the size of a small
room were alternating repeating years. I saw a plaque nearby with some title of
literature. I didn't linger to read it. Crowded with foreigners.
I stopped in
at the Sherlock Holmes Pub. This publican house used to be called the
Northumberland Hotel and Baskerville lost one of his boots here. I looked at a
few of the objects on the walls and decided to get a pint. I asked for a pint
of their best bitter. The bartender was not ready for this and asked the other
'tenders which is the best. A girl bartender suggested something that I forget
the name of so I got a pint of that. As I fumbled around for a few coins I told
the bartender that I still wasn't used to coins having any value. American
coins do not buy anything. After paying £3 for the pint, I took it outside. The
weather was amazing as I searched for an unoccupied chair. I asked a man at a
table with three open chairs if I could join him. He said OK and told me he was
with two others. I got to speak with this friendly Scotsman at length about the
differences between Britain and America, specifically personal & public
transportation and politics. He was, more or less, for the war in the Middle
East. And I found myself embarrassed by the poor speaking ability of the
President. His two companions were women coworkers, one was a Briton and the
other an attractive blonde from Ontario. It was a meeting of the
English-speaking West! Do you realize that the average vacation time in London
is twenty-five days and this does not include the eight annual holidays! The
working pace seemed much slower too because we conversed for an hour or more
before they left to return to work. That's why Britain isn't a superpower!
I walked through Craven Passage, essentially an alleyway, and proceeded up the
Strand. This thoroughfare was walked by Holmes and Watson frequently and is
where stereotypes place the sleuths. I saw the Charing Cross train station, the
American Exchange Stand, and the Charing Cross Hotel, which are all noteworthy
for a Holmes fan. I also walked by the immense glass façade of Coutt's and Co.
Bank in which Holmes bought his Stradivarious and Watson met Mycroft Holmes.
This bank is the largest private institution in Britain and famous for its
royal customers, including the Queen.
I saw where the Charing Cross Hospital, now a police station, stands.
Continuing along the Strand, I saw the Adelphi Theatre. Turning left into
Wellington Street I saw the Lyceum Theatre where Mary Morstan from "The Sign of
Four" met a secret benefactor. The New Royal Opera House on the corner of Bow
Street and Floral near Covent Garden where Holmes listen to Wagner. Across the
street is the Bow Street Police Court where "The Man with a Twisted Lip" was
transformed into Neville St. Clair.
After I finished the Sherlock Holmes Walk, I decided I would hop on the Tube
and see the touristy sights. I missed the Covent Garden station so continued
towards Trafalagar Square but was stopped by two German tourists looking for a
supermarket. I suggested going to the Square. I guess I look like a native!
As I neared the Square I decided to walk on to the Piccadilly Circus tube stop.
The weather was too nice to hop on a sweaty train with lots of tourists. I
walked past Leicester Square and to the Piccadilly Circus tube stop. Near the
Circus I was stopped by a very attractive dark-haired foreign girl wanting to
know where she was. I was looking at the street map this time and was trying to
locate myself. I pointed out the Piccadilly Tube stop on her Underground map
and pointed to the nearby Underground access. My guess was that she was
Eastern European judging by her appearance and accented English. I went in to
the Tube and took the Piccadilly line one stop to Green Park.
I did not have my camera today so I took no pictures, preferring to enjoy
myself. I walked through Green Park, looked at the map, and then went to see
Buckingham Palace. Guards with black fur hats patrolled up and down in front of
two doors. Interesting but not too exciting because there is a fence that keeps
the public over a hundred feet away from the building. I returned to the Green
Park and took the Tube to Westminster.
I saw the Westminster Bridge and saw and heard Big Ben toll. I continued around
the Houses of Parliament enjoying the unusual architecture full of vertical
edges. In Parliament Square a protest was taking place against Blair, Bush, and
the war. Security was high around the Houses. On my way to Westminster Abbey I
made a wrong turn and had to backtrack. The Abbey is immense and impressive but
also swamped with tourists. I continued on Victoria Street towards the
Cathedral, which was less spectacular but still interesting.
I took the Tube from Victoria station to Oxford Circus. I walked to Carnaby
Street. Not impressive. I expected some relics from the Hippie times but
nothing. In it's place upscale clothing stores and crude t-shirt stores. I
scoured the area looking for a good T-shirt for my step-father, who was the one
who told me about this area. All I wanted was something with the Stones or Jimi
Hendrix on it. Disappointed, I bought a few postcards.
I returned to the hotel during rush hour. The Tube was busy but it was
tolerable. The other travelers were decent and not smelly so it did not bother
me to be close to these strangers. We even got a quick laugh at a really pissed
off train conductor. She screamed over the intercom to "mind the doors." In the
London Underground most of the messages are automated. Download and listen to
this
sample.
Before returning to the room, I stopped by the Sainsbury's in Earl's Court and
got makings for roast beef, cheddar sandwiches. Beer is sold in bottles roughly
twice the singles seen in the States. It was hilarious to see a normal bottle
of Sam Adams being dwarfed by the larger English bottles! I picked out a
Speckled Hen beer. Back in the room I ate and watched BBC TV. The beer was OK
but not spectacular.
A productive day where I mixed well with the natives, i.e. until I spoke!
Walked an estimated 8 miles
and my feet hurt!
Return to the trip main page
On to the next day, April Fool's
